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The abnormally cool conditions and continuing threat
of frost and freezing temperatures during the past few weeks have
stretched the patience of homeowners and commercial growers alike.
Growing crops and gardening in Michigan require a basic understanding
of the hazard of frost and possible protective strategies. The following
is a summary of some background and options available to commercial
growers and homeowners.
What is frost?
In meteorological terms, frost
refers to any condition in which the ground surface (including vegetation
or bare soil) falls below 32EF.
This can be due to cold air moving into a region or by radiative
surface cooling under clear, calm conditions.
Ice crystals that form on the ground can be caused
by freezing water droplets or through sublimation, when water vapor
forms ice without first becoming water. When the ground reaches
freezing and no ice forms, this is called blackfrost. Both types
of frost may lead to freezing and plant tissue injury. Whitefrost,
the typical whitening of the ground as the result of radiational
cooling from the surface, is the most common frost we see in Michigan.
To understand why frost forms near the ground, it's
important to understand that the air's ability
to hold water vapor depends on the temperature. The higher the air
temperature, the greater the amount of water vapor that the air
can potentially hold.
The dew point is the temperature at which water
vapor in the air condenses (into dew, fog, or clouds) if cooled
at constant pressure. When the air temperature falls to the dew
point, the air is saturated, as it cannot hold any more water vapor.
Any excess moisture is condensed out into liquid (dew) or ice (frost).
To predict frost it=s
important to understand the factors that lead to its formation.
The overwhelming majority of frosts are accompanied by relatively
calm, cloudless weather conditions during evening and early morning
hours. When solar radiation or wind mix up the air levels near the
ground during the day, the air temperature depends on the conditions
in the surrounding region.
In contrast, on clear, calm nights, there is no
incoming solar energy to create thermal turbulence and the ground
surface radiates energy. These factors combine to cool the ground
at a steady rate, and because air itself is an effective thermal
insulator, the surface and any vegetation on it quickly become cooler
than the air above it.
When the cooling surface reaches the air=s
dew point, dew forms. If the surface is at or below freezing, frost
forms. In such inversions, it is not uncommon to see temperatures
several degrees cooler on the ground than at five or six feet above
the surface. This is the reason we frequently see frost on the ground
when the official temperature,
taken at five feet above the surface, is in the mid- or even upper
30's (F).
Other factors influencing frost
formation
Several major factors strongly influence the risk
of frost and its formation:
Topography. As the surface cools and an inversion
layer develops, some of the air near the surface gets colder than
the air layers above. Since cool air is denser than warm air, the
cooler surface air flows downhill
like a liquid, due to the force of gravity. This movement of air,
which rarely moves faster than one to two miles per hour, is referred
to as cold air drainage
and is one of the primary reasons that fruit crops can be successfully
grown on hilly Michigan ground where cooler air can drain away.
Hills, ridges and other landscape features that
allow cooler air to drain away are less likely to experience frost
formation. In contrast, low-lying areas, especially depressions
where cold air can collect, are much more likely to experience a
more frequent and longer frosts.
Soil type, moisture. One factor influencing
the rate at which the ground surface cools is the movement of heat
energy upwards. The greater this upwards flux at night, the less
surface cooling will occur. Any soil or surface modification that
increases or decreases this flux can significantly impact surface
temperature.
The most common way to modify the surface is to
trap some of the heat energy in a cover or mulch, preferably one
that contains insulating air. A wetter soil allows more of the ground
heat flux to move toward the surface. Thus, keeping a soil well-watered
can offer some limited protection against frost. On a longer-term
basis, this also means that coarse-textured soils with lesser water
holding capacities will face more frost than sites with fine-textured
soils that hold water better.
Vegetation. The type and amount of vegetation
on a surface can significantly influence frost formation. Overhanging
vegetation can directly interfere with heat loss on the surface,
preventing frost formation. Dense vegetation near the surface (such
as unmowed turf) can trap large quantities of air, which can in
turn can insulate the ground similar to a mulch
Frost dissipation
In most frost situations, their duration depends on
day length and the time of sunrise. As the sun rises, it heats the
ground and may melt the frost directly. The sun's
radiative heat may also indirectly melt frost by mixing warmer air
from above with the air at the surface. Normally, the last areas
to lose the frost will be those shaded by vegetation or on northern
or western slopes.
Predicting frost
The key to predicting frost is forecasting the clear,
calm conditions that are necessary for its formation. These conditions
are most likely associated with areas of surface high pressure,
so any prediction should be heavily based on surface weather maps
where these features can be found.
Consult your local TV weather prognosticator or
the National Weather Service (NWS) short-term (12- to 24-hour) forecast.
Pay particular attention to predicted clouds, wind and temperatures.
Also note the dew point temperature and compare it with the forecast
minimum temperature to guess the likelihood of dew or frost formation.
The closer the dew point temperature to the air temperature, the
greater the likelihood of dew or frost.
World Wide Web surfers can find this information at
MSUs agricultural weather office Web site, which can be found at
www.agweather.geo.msu.edu
This site features the latest National Weather Service
forecasts, MSU specific minium temperature forecasts for many Michigan
locations, and detailed computer-generated forecast information
for 16 sites across the state, including forecasts for clouds, wind
speed and temperatures and other variables at three-hour increments.
How can you gauge the minimum temperature without
access to forecast information? Use a sensor that gives wet bulb
temperature (the temperature to which air can be cooled by liquid
water evaporation). This is normally measured by moving air across
a temperature sensor covered with a wet wick. Using the wet bulb
temperature, one can also obtain the dew point and relative humidity.
The dew point will always be less than or equal to the wet bulb
temperature, which will always be less than or equal to the air
temperature. The minimum morning temperature will be similar to
the prior evenings dew point.
This measurement has some scientific merit for the
most common frost scenarios of clear, calm conditions with cold
air drainage and vertical temperature stratification. In this situation,
there may be little movement of moisture in the air, so the dew
point taken the prior evening will indicate the air=s
moisture during the following hours. When the air temperature falls
to the dew point, two things happen. First, water vapor condenses
out of the air and gives off heat. Secondly, some of the vapor may
condense in the air, forming fog. This drastically reduces the amount
of heat ground loses. Both of these combine to prevent the air temperature
from falling much further. The minimum temperature during one of
these events commonly remains a few degrees above the dew point.
This is probably because the air temperature is taken at five feet
above the surface, and under these calm, clear conditions, it is
warmer than the temperature at or near the surface, which is relatively
cooler and has reached the dew point.
Some important notes of caution with this rule of
thumb. First, it is only helpful under the circumstances described
above (relatively clear, calm conditions.). Freezing temperatures
experienced under cloudy, windy conditions are much more complicated
to determine. With the clear, calm frost scenario, it is not uncommon
for the dew point to drop a few degrees during the night, as moisture
condenses out of the air and into dew or frost, resulting in minimum
temperatures somewhat lower than those estimated the previous evening.
The best strategy is to closely monitor conditions throughout the
event, by occasional reading thermometers and/or dew point/web bulb
sensors in the field.
What can I do to protect my new
transplants?
There are both passive and active strategies for
protecting vegetation from frost. The passive strategies include
selecting frost-tolerant varieties or waiting until the danger of
frost is passed before planting.
One active strategy involves moving plants to a location
with warmer temperatures or a roof overhead, which prevents or lowers
heat loss. Moving plants under a tree with some foliage may also
help. For many situations, however, this is not possible or practical.
Plants that can=t
be moved should be covered to trap outgoing heat from the soil below
or prevent frost from forming on plant surfaces. This method provides
excellent results, provided that the air temperature does not drop
too far below freezing for too long (e.g. mid 20's F for several
hours) and your covering material has some insulation value.
Several inches of a leaf or straw mulch are much
more effective under low temperatures than a single sheet of newspaper.
The rule here is that the more air within the layer(s) of the covering,
the greater the protection. Whether the cover is a mulch, a blanket,
a plastic sheet, or some other material, it is a generally a good
idea to minimize the time it is in place. This is especially important
the day following the cold evening, when a transparent covering
left in place could trap incoming sunshine and lead to heat injury.
In larger commercial settings, mulching or covering
plants is probably not practical. The most commonly used method
in Michigan for large areas is a wind machine that mixes higher
temperature air with the coldest air near the ground surface. Such
fans can provide several degrees F of protection, though they are
effective only under relatively clear, calm radiation-type
frost events, in which an inversion is present. If winds or clouds
accompany the cold event, this method is much less effective.
Another effective method is sprinkling the vegetation
with water during the cold event, typically with irrigation equipment
(for commercial settings) or a lawn sprinkler (for home use). In
this method, the water freezes to the plant surface, releasing latent
heat While the vegetation may look terrible covered in a layer of
ice, this is a highly effective method that works even in non-inversion
type situations, there are a couple of potential problems.
Sprinkling works only as long as water is applied
and the latent heat release continues. If the sprinkling stops,
the plant tissue/ice temperature may drop quickly to the air temperature
and any protection is lost. So make sure your sprinkler is in good
working order and that the sprinkling continues until the temperature
has risen back above freezing. Additionally, if the sprinkling and
freezing persist long enough, accumulating ice may actually damage
the plants. This type of damage is worse when wind is present. There
is not much one can do to prevent this type of damage, other than
keep the sprinkler from applying too much water too quickly.
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